Thursday, March 31, 2011

Troubleshooting a Hayward Sand Filter For Pools

!: Troubleshooting a Hayward Sand Filter For Pools

My sand filter is running at high pressures

Follow the backwashing instructions in your Owner's Manual. The sand bed may be clogged with mineral deposits that will not backwash away. Some calcium based chlorines and other alternative sanitizers will build up in your sand bed, and will wish more frequent backwashing and changing of the sand.

Before you replace all the sand in your filter, try removing roughly 1" of the top layer of the sand, replace with the exact amount of sand you removed. General life span of the sand is about 4 - 5 years.

You may have to clean your filter law with a special filter cleaner, please call Blue Haven Pools & Spas for more information.

Check to see if there is a closed or partially closed valve along your return piping, open the valve.

Your pump may be too small to supply enough flow for permissible backwashing. Your filter will function, but a lower institute flow rate will cause your law to backwash improperly. Check the yield of the pump to be sure that it equals your filter's institute flow rate. Replace the pump if it is too small.

My sand filter is running in short cycles

Improper backwashing could be the reason. Always backwash until the water runs clear in the valve's sight glass, ordinarily about two minutes.

You may have live algae causing the filter to clog. By testing the water equilibrium with a test kit and super chlorinating, you should solve this problem.

There is sand at the lowest of the pool

The sand you are using could be too small, which will go straight through the filter system, then back into the pool. Remove the sand and replace it with the permissible grade of sand - #20 Silica or 45-55mm pool sand.

Your pump may be too big for your filter. During backwashing the pressure can cause the sand to rise high enough to overflow into the standpipe, allowing sand to flow back into the pool. Refer to your Owner's hand-operated for the precise amount of sand for your filter.

There could be a loose lateral located at the lowest of your filter. Tighten any loose laterals, replace if broken.

Most calcium based chlorine, both powder or Tablets, comprise from 30 - 35% of what is called inert materials. This is calcium residue or dust, which many pool owners mistake for sand. You can confirm this by following these steps: During vacuuming, use a hand vac and pole. As the vac head approaches, the sand will lay on the bottom, and will allow itself to be picked up. Most calcium residue will scatter away from the vac head as you try to pick it up.

If you have this problem, we suggest that you put extra water in your pool and vacuum to the waste line. If you vacuum to the filter, some of it will be trapped on the sand surface, allowing dust to get back into your pool.

The pool won't stay clear

Your pool chemistry may be out of balance, allowing algae to multiply.

The flow rate straight through the filter may be low due to clogged or undersized piping. Cleaning the lines or changing to larger pipes will precise this problem.

Your filter performance time may not be long enough to compensate for heavy use or hot weather. Try running your filter for 24 hours to clear the water, then adjust to less running time.

Your pump may be hooked up to the wrong port on the multiport valve. If incorrectly installed, the filter will be flowing in reverse. Be sure the pump is related to the port marked "pump" on the valve.

You could be backwashing too often. Backwash only when the pressure rises 7 - 10 psi over the beginning pressure, or when the return flow back into the pool becomes low.

My filter is noisy

An oversized pump may cause noise in your filter valve due to inordinate flow. To test, hold your hand partially in front of any returns at the pool wall. If the noise subsides, this will confirm that the question is inordinate flow. It can be remedied by by installing smaller eyeball fittings in the return(s), changing the pump impeller size in the pump, or turn to a 2-inch operate valve.

My Vari-Flo valve leaks to waste

The valve seat gasket inside the valve has come to be worn or loose. How do you replace the gasket? You will need a new gasket, some Krazy Glue, and a sharp 1/8-inch wide flat bladed screwdriver.

Note: Mark the top and lowest of the valve with a marking pen. It's very foremost that you do not turn the location of the cover when re-assembling. Remove the cover, ordinarily six screws. Using the screwdriver, scrape out every last part of the gasket and cement, in order to get back to a clean flat surface. Put a fair amount of crazy glue on the flat side of the gasket. Place the gasket, flat side down, back into place - let dry for one hour minimum.


Troubleshooting a Hayward Sand Filter For Pools

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Tuesday, March 22, 2011

The significance of Water Pond Filters and Pumps

!: The significance of Water Pond Filters and Pumps

Water pond filters are very important to any fish pond, most citizen often only think about the embellishment and the surroundings of the pond itself. To allege a good potential healthy looking pond you need to have water pond filters in place, the ones that can cope with the size and volume of water in order to keep the pond clean and healthy for you're fish to survive. So when you build your fish pond, you must have the accurate pump and filter installed, as these two qualified tools do a broad job in removing dirt, leaves, fish waste and other debris that cause bacteria and hazardous levels of pH in the water.

There are lots of distinct types and variations of water pond filters ready on shop theses days, like for instance backwashing filters, pressure filters, Uv filters and bio filters. To know which type that suits your pond the best is to do a small explore on the internet and do some consulting it with the experts. Once you've chosen your water pond filters you will also need to pick the best pump, there are two types of pumps that you can use, the ones that are submersible, and the ones that are housed covering the pond, but both types do a fantastic job.

Submersible pumps are often used to create fountains and other water features as well as feeding the main filter itself. They are very easy to install and operate, and don't need to be primed or anything like that. These types of pumps have a strainer on the inlet side to preclude fish and debris being sucked into the enthralling parts. External covering pumps are more qualified and are ordinarily a lot larger and more costly than the submersible types. If you want to pump up to a waterfall of any distance, then you will need to use a covering pump.

When linking your pump to the water pond filters, make sure that they are both compatible with each other and that the capacity of the pump is favorable for the volume of water in your fish pond. You can do this by checking the output of the pump which is given in gallons (or litters) per hour. This terminology can be a small confusing, but a good rule of thumb is to make sure that the pump can circulate all of the pond water straight through the filter within one to two hours.

If you want the pump to feed a filter and fountain at the same time, then you will need to think the consequent of the water spurting out of the fountain, the greater the maximum head, the higher the water will spray into the air thus reducing the water circulation time. Majority of pond pumps are powered by electricity, and the growing trend towards solar power has lead to an increase of solar powered pumps. But please think this, most solar powered pumps are only favorable for fountains and smaller water features, and are not favorable for water pond filters.


The significance of Water Pond Filters and Pumps

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